(from Jewish Holiday Cooking: A Food Lover’s Treasury of Classics and Improvisations, by Jayne Cohen, available in print and e-book formats)
Yield: 2 medium loaves
Yield: 30 to 35 macaroons
Serves about 8
Pecans and a shot of Jack Daniels stirred into haroset. Smothered greens with schmaltz and griebenes. Creole matzoh balls simmered in the gumbo.
Sounds like the inventive Seder menu of a hipster chef on Orchard Street or some bistro in Bushwick, Brooklyn? But dishes like these—many co-created with African-American cooks and caterers--have been savored at Jewish Passovers in the American South for generations.
LIZ: Tsimmes is a sweet Ashkenazi stew in which the ingredients vary depending on family origin and tradition. The dish is often eaten during the Jewish High Holidays to symbolically usher in a sweet new year. This sweet-and-savory chicken tsimmes is an easy dish with a built-in side. The juices of the chicken enhance the flavors of the carrots and prunes. It’s filling when paired with rice or kasha, and it’s colorful and complex enough to serve for the holidays.
My grandpa Jake was a gifted storyteller in the spinner-of-tall-tales manner. So when he described the one time he ate ice cream as a boy—far superior to any frozen dessert you could buy in our huge suburban supermarket and so memorable he hadn't forgotten it in fifty years—I was, of course, skeptical.
After all, he also said the weather in the Old Country was better too—never that cold because it was remarkably “dry.” And we’re talking Minsk, Belarus.
The women in Cara De Silva's remarkable book, In Memory’s Kitchen: a memoir of life in Terezin, written in recipes," transcended their hunger by “cooking with the mouth”--talking constantly about food--and writing cookbooks. It was not the only cookbook to come out of the concentration camps. According to De Silva, there are five more that she knows of, and certainly others exist. She described one of these manuscripts, authored by Malka Zimmet, an inmate in a work subcamp of Mauthausen.